Bon Appetite
September 2005

TOP 5 RESTAURANT CITIES

Mere steps away at UNION BAR AND GRILLE, a more patently chic (but no less energetic) vibe awaits. Owners Seth Woods, Jeff Gates, and Matt Bums, along with chef de cuisine Stephen Sherman, have turned out the first undeniably posh place in the area and balanced it with simple dishes. "It's native New England food made contemporary," says Sherman. "Nothing fancy, just basic and good."

Since opening with a huge splash two years ago, Union has gracefully walked the line between cosmopolitan and comfy. The bar may be packed three-beautiful-people deep, but the stream- lined dining room--all oversize square chandeliers and shiny black banquettes--is surprisingly pomp-free. Likewise, the menu: Dig into the Alaskan halibut with maitake mushrooms, English peas, radishes, and green garlic butter to taste just how fresh simply prepared fish can be. The burgers, plump two-fisted affairs of beef mixed with smoky andouille sausage, ooze Vermont cheddar. Not rich enough for you? The banana cream pie comes smothered with Valrhona chocolate ganache.

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